Art Deco Mughal-style Platinum, Emerald and Sapphire Brooch, Cartier
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Art Deco Mughal-style Platinum, Emerald and Sapphire Brooch, Cartier, designed as a floral-carved emerald tablet measuring approx. 49.00 x 45.00 x 5.00 mm within a scrolling frame channel-set with calibre-cut emeralds and sapphires, cabochon sapphire highlights, 2 x 2 1/4 in., with pendant hook, signed Cartier N.Y., (evidence of solder at pinstem).
Note: Indian carved Colombian emeralds were prominently featured in the jewelry Cartier presented at the 1925 Paris Exhibition. Cartier carried on extensive trade with India, remounting the gems of the maharajahs, reselling antique Indian jewelry, and purchasing carved gems from Indian dealers. For additional examples of eight-sided cut-emerald forms ("athkoni") and a history of their use as carved plaques in Indian jewelry, see Traditional Jewelry of India, by Oppi Untracht, pp. 330-331.